Acclaimed chef Steven Fretz (Top Round, XIV) has opened up a modern America dim sum eatery on West Sunset called The Church Key (8730 Sunset Blvd), and the restaurant is drawing early praise for its sexy interior and creative American cuisine served dim sum style from roaming carts. Fretz is joined by chef Ryan Ososky (XIV), with Ian Opina (Hatfield’s) in charge of pastries and Joseph Sabato (The Bazaar, XIV) serving as the GM.
Unique fusion dishes include Truffled Tahini, Lamb Belly, and Pig Ear “Cheetos.” Fixings come in the form of unique condiments such as bacon jam and chive butter.
The restaurant also features specialty cocktail carts. Mixologist Devon Espinosa (Pour Vous, ink., The Tasting Kitchen) creates the libations, including multiple flavors of spiked otter pops, frothy creations, and more traditional drinks as well.
Patrons should also leave room for dessert; it’s likely that you will want to to flag down the dessert cart multiple times for a Chai Poached Pear Tart, Brown Butter Glazed Donuts and more.
The Church Key’s rustic, living-room-like décor includes couches, picnic style benches for larger groups, and mismatched comfy chairs that tie everything together well. Logs of wood sit stacked within the white brick walls; candles, lamps, and a double-sided fireplace add to the ambiance.
The Church Key is open Monday – Saturday from 5:30pm- 2am. Though the kitchen closes at 11pm, servers will cart around food until closing time.
The Church Key’s website is not up and running yet, so visit their Facebook page to keep current with happenings at the restaurant.